At first glance, it's easy to come to the conclusion that Golden Gai is a deserted ghost town. But it ain't. There is a great heaving lifestyle behind the closed doors of these nomiya's (tiny 6 - 10 seat bars). Looking for the seedy bohemian underbelly of Tokyo? This is the place. Just make sure you're with someone who can speak and read Japanese. The bartenders love to chat, and they always have interesting stories to tell.