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open letter to jackie, adrian and russell

kecap manis and couscous on the kitchen table

dear friends,

i'm writing this as an open letter to you because you're probably the only people in the world who know how much the above picture (taken in my kitchen 5 minutes ago) means to me.....

being a vegetarian can be bloody hard in this country. eating out at traditional japanese restaurants is usually fraught with awkward requests to alter a menu item which is often not-negotiable, and eating at japanese homes can mean plate after plate of some side dish like inari sushi or steamed greens (which ain't all that bad, it is true). so i find myself cooking at home most of the time (unless the plan is to dine at some cheap indian or thai place - thankfully quite common here in tokyo but completely non-existant out in the country). sadly though, my usual cooking ingredients are near impossible to find.

today, i ventured out to the local supermarket and detoured via the lovely little import shop, kaldi's coffee house. many of my friends and flatties have told me to go there for various hard-to-find purchases, like decent coffee, etc. i checked it out a few times but was puzzled by the small size and range and wondered why the hell everyone thought this place was so fabulous coz there was nothing in it!

but today, oh sublime divine accidental findings, today i realised why. i found a dark little stairwell that i had never noticed before. i peered up and saw the stairwell walls lined with paraphanalia. at the very top of the stairs, something that shone brighter than any spotlight or pot of gold: a large display of thai curry pastes.

i had found the tokyo based vegetarian pot of gold. every step brought me nearer to a full blown weep! a zillion indian herbs and spices, curry mixes from all over the world, all the taco and nachos ingredients you could ever wish for, shelves and shelves of asian sauces. oh my god. you have no idea how much this place means to me now.

yes, after a 17 month drought, i have found my source for my all time essential ingredient: kecap manis. and my favourite alternative to rice and pasta: cous cous.

and now, i am going to cook up a fucking storm and create the perfect stir fry.

wish you were here,

all my love,

marty xoxo

frangipani wrote this on May 25, 2004 03:47 PM
Comments
Due to the proliferation of comment spam, I've closed comments on all older entries. If you would like to leave a comment for this post, please email me directly at martine {at} frangipani {dot} info and I'll add it manually. Thank you and sorry for any inconvience caused.
Patrick said:

Caldi is great! A definite stop everytime we're in Kichijoji or Shimokitazawa, even if just for the free coffee at the entrance. :)

You've also got another similar shop in Kichijoji called Carnival, and in Shinjuku and Ikebukuro there's Yamaya.
All good spots for imported food!

Carnival link
Yamaya link

May 25, 2004 04:29 PM
Don Simons said:

I was told once that there is a "Natural" food place in Takatanobaba, but have no more information than that (it might be Souen). I will try to find out more for you. It is supposed to be famous. There is also Kinokuniya in Omotesando (takai).
Have a look at this website if you are an Asian food fancier.
http://www.hyperfrank.com/ingr.html

May 25, 2004 11:04 PM
J. said:

itadakimasu! いただきます!

May 25, 2004 11:53 PM
frangipani said:

patrick and don, thanks for the links, will investigate them further.

j, itadakimasu, ne!

yesterdays stir fry was a killer. i'm having the leftovers for lunch today, too. can't wait, my mouth is watering already!

May 26, 2004 01:21 PM
robb said:

Kecap Manis !!! I couldn't find that anywhere when I was living in Okazaki, Japan last year. I have a big bottle of it in my kitchen here in LA. It makes the best fried rice. Even my meat eating friends (I'm vegan) love food I make with it.

May 26, 2004 04:50 PM
j-ster said:

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but Kinokunia near Omotesando has closed temporarily (ie for the next few years!!!) while the building is being knocked down (almost completed now) and a new one built. But Natural House, just a few steps away, with a bewildering array of weird organic stuff is still open - i never really know what im buying there tho...

Martine, I didnt realise you are vegetarian. There are few veggo restaurants around but on the other hand there are quite a few restaurants that have veggo options, ie more than one or two...Id be happy to give you directions if you would share the recipie for the perfect stir fry...

May 26, 2004 11:24 PM
gleek said:

hi martine! i've read your site for a while but never piped up (came across you from 35 degrees and such). i'm a vegetarian and my fiance is vegan and we live in NYC. we're very lucky here because we can cook at home and eat really well even if we go out. i've been studying japanese now for two years and want to make my pilgrimage to the "homeland" sometime soon. i've often wondered how hard it would be to be veggie in japan! your post gives me hope that i would be able to survive for at least a visit. keep your head up and enjoy the new curries you found!

May 28, 2004 01:25 AM
frangipani said:

j-ster, of course, lets trade recipes and locations at sunday brunch.

gleek, it's actually not so difficult to be a veggie here, it just takes a tiny bit more work than normal. you'll do fine.

i have a bunch of vege site links on my links page - maybe i should just cut and paste them here so that any vegetarians in tokyo who stumble on to this page can have all the info at the finger tips!

Tokyo Vegetarian Guide: Vegetarian-friendly Restaurant Guide
HappyCow: Vegetarian Restaurants - Health Food Stores- Tokyo, Japan
Japan Vegetarian Society - Restaurant
veg-restaurant
Tokyo Food Page (not really a veggie site but interesting none the less...)
Kaldi Coffee Farm (in japanese....)

finally, here is an oldish link to all the import food stores in tokyo.

not all these pages are all that helpful but every little bit helps, desho!

oh, and by the way, if you have come to the comments just by clicking on the comments link at the bottom of the entry on the main page, then the links are NOT highlighted until you mouseover them. if you are at the archive entry though, you should be fine. a little quirk i haven't quite worked out yet....

May 28, 2004 01:59 AM
ninds said:

Nothing beats Indonesian kecap manis :) I always have one in my kitchen, no matter which country I live in. And it has to be kecap ABC.

Very nice to see another fan too...

June 3, 2004 07:11 AM